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One of the world's best restaurant is shutting down.
Noma, which was recognized as the world's best restaurant in 2021 and was awarded three Michelin stars, announced that it will be closing its doors. The Copenhagen restaurant's chef and creator, René Redzepi told The New York Times the establishment would shut down regular service at the end of 2024, citing the "unsustainable" business model found in fine dining. It will shift to become a food lab instead.
The restaurant, which has been at the forefront of culinary innovation since its inception in 2004, is known for the transformation of local and foraged ingredients, rather than expensive imports like foie gras from France or uni from Japan. This style of cooking, known as new Nordic Cuisine, has led to a variety of dishes that range from simple and delicious sounding to more out-of-the-box creations.
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In October 2022, while on a trip to Denmark, Jenny Mollen posted a snapshot of her menu at Noma accompanied by a concerned email from her son's teacher.
"Today in school your son shared with his classmates that you are in Copenhagen on an adult trip and have been eating (pardon my language) 'tons of penis,'" the email read. "While I hate to bother you on your vacation, I felt strongly that you should be aware and perhaps address the issue at your earliest convenience."
Amused by the email, Mollen, 43, shared a possible reply from her phone Notes app in the next slide of the Instagram carousel. "He's not lying. I have been eating tons of penis on this trip," she wrote.
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The picture of the Noma menu had the restaurant's reindeer penis ragout circled among the 15 courses. Alongside the reindeer's penis, the cooks at Noma made use of the heart, blood, and even the brain. For the less adventurous, the menu featured familiar reprieves throughout in the form of a "wild duck and truffle tart" or "saffron ice cream with poppy seeds."
A recipe for a reindeer penis salad is also in Redzepi's latest cookbook.
Noma's creative use of ingredients has inspired chefs across the globe and even on the small screen. In FX's The Bear, Jeremy Allen White's character, Carmy, has a variety of cookbooks littered around his restaurant and apartment, with multiple hailing from the Nordic restaurant. Additionally, throughout the show's first season, the restaurant's pastry cook Marcus, who's played by Lionel Boyce, is seen closely studying and replicating some of the techniques found in The Noma Guide to Fermentation.
In a statement on their website, the restaurant shared plans for the future. "In 2025, our restaurant is transforming into a giant lab – a pioneering test kitchen dedicated to the work of food innovation and the development of new flavors."